Welcome back to North London’s longest-running cultural title: this will be our last issue before a short summer break, but in the meantime we celebrate the return of the Old Farmhouse, new arrivals Dhakaah, The China and the new chef at Half Cut Market. With the weather now sizzling, we also round-up of some of our many features on outdoor swimming on the Heath from over the years.
The Old Farmhouse to open in the Lady Hamilton
It was encouraging to hear that the former Lady Hamilton, which closed last summer, is reopening as the Old Farmhouse, the original name given to the boozer back in 1885 (there are even two plaques on the building commemorating that). The new owners say they’ll be bringing ‘cosy farmhouse style’ pub interiors which will extend upstairs to the boutique bedrooms. So yep, it’s set to be a hotel too - as seems to be the way these days.
Some history? Originally known as the Star & Garter, in 1885 the pub was rebuilt into its present form with striking Victorian red brick exterior. Rechristened The Old Farm House, it enjoyed a reign of a century or so before being renamed O’Reilly’s at the turn of the millennium (with a short stint in the 1990s as Dolly Fossetts).
Irish pub O’Reilly’s held strong from 2001 until the mid-teens before a short-lived takeover by Camden Brewery which stalled after a couple of years. Rescued by the owners of The Pineapple and Tapping The Admiral and renamed Lady Hamilton, most locals agreed they finally got the vibe right, but even that incarnation failed sadly last summer.
So now it’s full circle back as the Old Farmhouse: work will start on the pub in August with the pub reopening in early October, bedrooms to follow early 2025. Read the feature online at kentishtowner.co.uk here.
Fan of outdoor swimming? Read these
Now it really is super-hot, many of us, if stuck in the capital, will feel in dire need of a dip or three. But even if you’re happier on dry land we’ve rounded up half a dozen very different takes on the Ponds, as well as the Lido, which we’ve published over the last decade. So pour yourself something iced and get stuck (metaphorically) in.
Tim Sowula on why he swims in the Ponds every week of the year
Writer and photographer Ruth Corney on why the Ponds are her perfect getaway
An interview with the makers of the hit documentary The Ponds
Photographer Brad Hobbs captures an icy winter dip
New Bangladeshi restaurant Dhakaah opens in Hawley Wharf
Dhakaah is the latest opening at the still-under-performing Hawley Wharf, the new part of Camden Market that, on our last evening visit, was a little ghostly (buzzy canalside taproom Three Locks is worth a visit, though).
A celebration of the street food and the specialities of Bangladesh, this newcomer named after the country’s vibrant capital Dhaka, and the owners say it’s part of their “larger vision to bring Bangladeshi culture and its specific cuisine to the UK, highlighting the individuality and diversity of this often overlooked culture.”
The menu is split into bar snacks, small plates and bigger plates, from Fuchka (Bangladesh’s answer to Pani Puri filled with spiced potato, chickpea and spiced tamarind water) and Peyaju (deliciously crisp dhal fritters) to Shingara (shortcrust pastry filled with soft potato and spiced vegetables.)
Bigger plates include the Beef Kathi Roll, a heavily spiced mezbani beef curry, wrapped in handmade parota; and the signature Chicken Roast, a free range chicken leg, caramelised with onion, mixed nuts and cardamon forward masala spices. Free-range British produce complements elements sourced directly from Bangladesh, including Kalijeera rice, a small Bangladeshi variety with a distinct nutty aroma and delicate texture. Follow @dhakaah_restaurants
Woop! New head chef and menu at Half Cut Market
We are huge fans of Half Cut Market, the edge-of-Kentish Town (OK, York Way) restaurant whose small plates rival anywhere in London (read our original review here). Their natural vino hits the spot, too.
Some history? It opened in 2021 as wine bar, shop and deli, founded by four north London friends – Danny, Holly, Edwin & Paul – with “decades of hospitality experience” between them (including Noble Rot, The Marksman & 40FT Brewery). It was soon holding sell-out pop-ups and supper clubs, putting it firmly on London’s ever-sprawling foodie map.
With the departure of talented chef Jack Newton, their new head chef Aidan Richardson (ex-BRAT, London & Cafe de Parel, Amsterdam) has just started his curation of the restaurant’s food menu - and it looks like a corker.
Dishes on his launch menu include mussels escabeche & confit fennel; pollock carpaccio and fermented chilli dressing; grilled red mullet, carrot and chilli-garlic rouille; and lamb rump, radish, white wine & watercress sauce. Don your shades and get down the York Way Riviera.
Just a little note (I’d love you to read this)
Kentishtowner turns 15 soon - which (sorry to brag) isn’t too shabby for an independent food & culture site run on almost zero resources. And, as usual, a billion thanks to those who donate. But to put it into perspective, that’s just under 5% of readers in the last year. As some of you know, Substack thrives on paid subscriptions but we’re still trying to resist it if possible so everyone in the area can read this for free. If you’re sitting on the fence a bit, maybe just ping over a couple of quid? After all, that’s cheaper than a coffee almost anywhere these days. And if just 10% of the readership donated £2 each month I wouldn’t even have to do the cap-in-hand thing. Make a donation here. Thanks so much - Stephen, editor.
The China arrives on Kentish Town Road
This newbie at 243 Kentish Town Road “looks like a takeaway but it also has tables inside and in a little garden,” says Kentish Town’s fabulously mysterious Secret Artist, who sketched the above image. “And within the long menu there are some serious and delicious gems,” she added (follow her on @secretartistnw5).
The former Fortune Express, its new name marks a broader, more comprehensive menu and contains everything from bao bun wraps and steamed sea bass to hot and spicy crab and, of course, duck pancakes. We’ll let you know our verdict next time.
Why we love: The Pineapple
Will Keir Starmer miss his favourite local? We pondered this the other night, swinging by, while all around it was business as usual. Prising open its wooden doors, you’re almost immediately met with a surge of co*ckle-warming conversation and good cheer, the air tinged with mahogany and ale.
How many times have you read the immortal words ‘Whiskies Brandies Wines’, archaic lettering etched into the back bar 150 years ago? A Victorian advertisem*nt, as well as recommendation for thirsty punters, it somehow underlines how many people have stepped through these doors, seeking solace, refuge or pleasure as they glaze over these options, before pulling up a stool at the bar.
In this balmy weather, of course, there’s nothing nicer than a drink outside watching the street, too. Read our essay on The Pineapple published to mark its 150th birthday here.
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